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Rosita Jacket Sew-A-Long: How to Insert the Pockets

Releasing the Rosita Jacket (my first pattern for the home sewer), I imagine is a lot like raising a first child. I am hearing from you, my customers, friends, and peers, that this pattern (my first child!) is a good one, but she needs more instructions.  Today, I’m writing this tutorial as one of two or three in a series to help clarify a few steps. The first step being a ‘how to’ on the insertion of the hidden side seam pockets. Ultimately, my plan is to do a complete update to the Rosita pattern instructions, and to provide a revised copy to everyone who has purchased her.  So, for now, here we go with the sew-a-long!

Rosita Jacket Side Seam Pockets

Step 1

Reinforce the pocket notches on all four pocket bags (8 notches, 2 each pocket bag), the fronts (4 notches, 2 each front), and side fronts (4 notches, 2 each side front) by stay stitching along the seam line of each notch for about 1″.

stay stitching along notch seam allowance for about 1″

Step 2

Matching notches, pin pocket bags to center fronts, WRONG sides together.

Pocket bags pinned to center fronts WRONG sides together. Extra tip – I use straight pins to mark the RIGHT side of the fabric so I don’t get confused. Those straight pins are visible in this image.

Step 3

Stitch the pocket bags to the center fronts, the entire length of the pocket bag, top to bottom, through each notch.

The notches are identified here with a red marker for instructional purposes only. The straight pin is indicating the RIGHT side of the fabric as also shown in the previous step

Step 4

Matching notches, pin pocket bags to side fronts, RIGHT sides together.  Stitch in place between notches only.

4a) Then, clip seam to, but not through, each notch.

4b) Press stitched seams towards pocket bag, leaving unstitched portions of the seam allowance free

 

4c) Trim and grade seam allowance, if necessary, to reduce bulk

4d) Edge stitch the seam allowance in place to each pocket bag between notches only.

 

4e) Turn pocket bags to inside, between notches, and press.  Be sure to leave the remaining unstitched seam allowances free and aligned with the rest of the side front

Step 5

Matching notches, pin side fronts to center fronts, WRONG sides together.  Stitch the entire length of the seam leaving open between notches on pocket bags.

matching notches before pinning
side front pinned to center front leaving pocket bag free and open
side front stitched to center front leaving pocket bag open

5a) Grade pocket bag seam allowances on either side of the pocket bag, if necessary.

ungraded pocket bag seam allowances
pocket bag seam allowances graded out

Step 6

Pin pocket bags together, RIGHT sides together, and stitch around the entire length, forming the pockets

6a) trim and/or finish the pocket bag edges with binding, zigzag or serge finish as desired

6b) Optional – if desired at this point the pocket bags may be topstitched in place to the center fronts

Step 7 (if you are binding the seams)

Pin binding along the entire edge of the center/side front seam, including the exposed pocket bag seam allowances.

7a) stitch binding in place, being careful to not catch the pocket bag seam.  (The side front is kept open between notches)

Step 8

Secure the other side of the binding in place by hand or machine as desired

The finished, hidden, in-seam pocket should look like the images immediately below when finished.

side front view
front view
front view with hand in pocket

I love making the Rosita Jacket with pockets.  I hope now with these instructions you do, too!!!

As always, I’m here if you need me.  Feel free to send me an email if you have questions or comments at christinegroom@zigzagdesigns.biz  And please send images of your Rosita so we can share your inspiring garment with others.

Happy Sewing!!

Christine Groom
Owner/Designer
ZigZag Designs

One thought on “Rosita Jacket Sew-A-Long: How to Insert the Pockets

  1. This is the only pattern I have with 1/2 inch seam allowances. It requires me to constantly remind myself. All the others are 1/4,3/8,or 5/8 inch. Am showing my age? The side pockets do require some instruction. I am doing a reversible front pocket. Do love your pattern,Chris.

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